Financing College
Financing a child's college education is often one of the largest expenditures a parent will make in preparing and launching their young adult into the world. This brochure is designed to help you understand the magnitude of the expense, assess your own need, and help to develop a plan to finance college.
What is the Cost?
Tuition, room and board costs range widely from community or state schools to the most expensive private colleges and universities.
The costs of college have been increasing about 6% per year in recent years. Use this 6% annual increase as a good rule of thumb to project your future expenses. The current cost ranges for tuition, fees, room and board by type of school are shown below.
Estimated Annual and Four Year College Costs By Type of College*
Type of College | Annual Cost Estimate | Four Year Cost Forecast |
---|---|---|
Public College | $11,500 - $18,500 | $47,000 - $74,000 |
Less Expensive Private College | $18,000 - $21,500 | $72,000 - $84,000 |
Mid-Range Private College | $23,500 - $34,500 | $94,000 - $138,000 |
Expensive Private College | $40,000 - $49,000 | $160,000 - $196,000 |
* Estimated costs include: Tuition, Average Student Curriculum Fees, Room and Board for undergraduate programs.
Hint: To project two-year graduate school expenses use the Mid-Range Private College annual expense estimate range in the chart above.
What is Your Situation?
A good way to review and forecast your own costs and establish savings requirements is to use the estimated costs mentioned previously and chart them out. The worksheet below has been provided to aid you in this process. To use the worksheet, simply follow the instructions.
The result is an estimate of what you will need to save to enable your child to attend their school of choice. The worksheet assumes you will have all of your savings in place prior to the first day of school. Remember, however, you also have the four college years to continue to save.
Once the projected costs for college are totaled and you and your student have agreed on the path to take, you can begin
to develop savings and investment plans for the upcoming outlays. Fortunately there are many alternatives available to you and your child to save funds.
How can you plan?
First, Leverage tax advantaged savings programs
- Coverdell Education IRA. You can invest up to $2,000 (after tax) per year, per student and not pay taxes on the interest and investment earnings. The funds must be used for school within 30 days of the student's 30th birthday. There will be taxes and a 10% penalty for funds not used for education, but funds may be transferred to another family member's education IRA or the student's IRA.
- Qualified Tuition Programs. Also known as 529 programs, almost every state now offers these portable college savings plans with tax free earnings for qualified expenses. You can invest up to the annual gift tax exemption limit per student and no income limits apply. Some are state tax exempt as well as federal tax free.
- US. Savings Bonds. Certain savings bond interest is tax free, if the funds are used for college.
- UTMA Accounts. Establish a savings account in your student's name. The interest and gains are taxed at the child's lower rates versus yours. Be careful, however, the funds are now owned by the child and "kiddie tax" calculations can limit the tax benefit.
Alert: The Kiddie Tax now applies to children under 19 (or 24 if a dependent student). Children in this age group with "excess" earnings are taxed at their parents' tax rate.
- Student Loan Interest Deductibility. You can deduct interest expense on your tax return for qualified student loans.
- Hope Scholarship. A tax credit exists for up to $1,800 of qualified education expenses in each of the first two years of a student's post secondary degree program. The credit covers 100% of the first $1,200 and 50% of the next $1,200 of qualified expenses. The student must attend at least 1/2 time for one academic period during the year to qualify and income limits apply.
- Lifetime Learning Credit. Allows you to claim a maximum tax credit equal to 20% of up to $10,000 of expenses. The maximum credit is $2,000 per year. The credit is a per tax return credit not per student and income limits apply.
Second, Try to leverage college savings strategies
- Timing - Time your investments so the funds are available as needed. Bonds and CDs should be timed to mature or come due just before you need them.
- Risk Management - Invest in higher risk, higher return vehicles if you have a number of years to invest for college. Shift the investments to lower risk accounts as the enrollment date approaches.
- Start Early - Start early to take advantage of compounding interest acceleration with longer term investing.
- Use Dollar Cost Averaging - Establish a college savings account and then make monthly deposits automatically. This approach will build a savings fund, while minimizing the timing risk of investing a pool of money and then having an investment fund drop in value.
Third, Review other resources
There are many additional ways to reduce the overall costs of college. Some of the most popular ideas are:
- Student Contributions - Have your children save to pay a portion of their college education. A nice rule of thumb is to have your student pay 15% to 25% of the cost.
- Scholarships - Seek scholarship opportunities for your child at the college(s) of their choice. Scholarships based on academic, athletic and extracurricular achievements are often available free of charge with no pay back obligations.
- Grants - Locate grants available in your hometown community and at your child's college(s) of choice.
- Work/Study Programs - Colleges often administer federally subsidized work/study programs for students to work on campus for a professor or in some other capacity whereby wages earned go toward tuition or room & board.
- Low Interest Student Loans - Loans are provided to students through the financial aid offices of most colleges, universities and banks. Make sure you fill out the federally required financial statement (FAFSA) to qualify.
Approximately five million students across the U.S. receive some type of financial aid for college.
- Leverage High School Resources - Look into advanced placement opportunities within your high school. Your student may be able to earn college credits through high school course work. Advisors also know the financial aid process and where to go to get scholarships and grants.
- Other Resources - Check out the following additional sources of financial aid:
- Stafford Loans - U.S. Government
- PLUS Loans - Federally funded from local banks
- Pell Grants - U.S. Government Grants
- College Financing Programs - Many colleges offer monthly payment and Pre-payment programs
This publication provides only summary information regarding the subject matter contained here. Please call with any questions on how this information may affect your situation.
Return to TopIndividual Retirement Accounts
Individual Retirement Accounts (IRAs) can assist most of us in reaching our long-range financial retirement goals. IRAs serve as key planning tools because of their preferred treatment in the tax code. In some cases, your contributions into an IRA are not taxed until withdrawn at retirement. In other cases your earnings within an IRA are tax-free.
There are a number of IRA accounts to choose from, each offering different advantages to different taxpayers, but all of them allow favorable tax treatments on earnings to accelerate compounded growth of your savings. So which is right for you?
Types of IRAs
Traditional IRAs
Traditional IRAs are the cornerstone of individual retirement accounts. Your contributions and earnings are not taxed at time of deposit unless your income is too high. If your annual income exceeds the limits you may still participate but your contributions may be taxed. In either case the earnings on your contributions still compound on a tax deferred basis. Other specifics include:
- The annual contribution is limited per person.
- The contribution and initial plan establishment deadline is April 15th of the following tax year.
- Contributions are tax deductible for anyone not covered in an employer plan regardless of income level. For those covered in employer plans, if your income is below certain thresholds, your contributions are also deductible.
- Earnings are tax deferred.
- Withdrawn funds are taxed as ordinary income.
- Withdrawals before age 59 1/2 are subject to a 10% penalty unless the withdrawal is for medical expenses, medical insurance if unemployed, post secondary education expenses, a first home purchase ($10,000 lifetime limit), disability or death (any ordinary income tax would still be owed).
Hint: Penalty free withdrawals may be made before age 59 1/2 if they are made in substantially equal sums for the longer of five years or until age 59 1/2. But be careful, the withdrawal rules are complex and if not followed you may be subject to a penalty.
- Withdrawals of non-deductible contributions are tax-free.
- Contributions must cease at age 70 1/2 and annual distributions are mandatory at age 70 1/2 based on life expectancy.
Hint: SEP-IRA accounts are also available for self-employed clients. While technically a defined contribution retirement plan, they use many of the same rules as the Traditional IRA. The major difference is in the contribution limits, which can be much higher than Traditional IRAs.
The Roth IRA allows you to deposit funds after paying the tax and the earnings ARE NOT TAXED at the time of withdrawal.
The basics of the Roth IRAs are:
- Contributions are after-tax and non-deductible.
- There is an annual contribution limit.
- Contribution eligibility is phased out as income rises.
- Contribution and initial plan establishment deadline is April 15th of the following year.
- Contributions may continue after age 70 1/2.
- Withdrawals are tax-free if withdrawn after age 59 1/2 and if after at least five years from your beginning contribution date.
- Non-qualified earnings withdrawals before age 59 1/2 will be taxed and any taxable portions will be assessed a 10% penalty.
- Early withdrawals of fund earnings after five years but before age 59 1/2 will be taxed but are not subject to the 10% tax penalty if the withdrawal is for a first home purchase (up to $10,000), disability, death, post secondary education, medical expenses and insurance if unemployed.
Hint: Remember early Roth IRA earning withdrawals are taxed but not your Roth contributions because they are made with after-tax dollars.
Simple IRAs
Which IRA is Right For You?
- There's more flexibility with a Roth IRA because of the age 70 1/2 mandatory withdrawal and contribution cessation requirements attached to a Traditional IRA. These age limits do not apply to a Roth IRA.
- If self-employed, look into SIMPLE and SEP-IRAs. They generally allow for larger annual contributions than a Roth or Traditional IRA. Employer provided IRAs of these types also have employer contributions into your account.
- If you are eligible for a deductible contribution to a regular IRA or a contribution to a Roth IRA you are often better off with the Traditional IRA. But be careful, the financial estimate you are making is that a larger up-front investment in pre-tax dollars will compound high enough to offset the tax you will pay when you withdraw the funds later. Other key considerations are your tax bracket when you contribute, your tax rate when you plan to withdraw the funds, how old you are, and your belief on what earnings the funds will generate over time.
- If your income is too high for a deductible contribution to a regular IRA or a non-deductible contribution to a Roth, consider making a non-deductible contribution to a regular IRA for the tax deferred benefits on the earnings growth.
Tip: You will generally do better to first maximize your contribution to an employer sponsored 401(k) plan in which the employer matches a portion of your contribution prior to investing in IRAs.
- Rollovers from deductible or non-deductible IRAs, SEPs or SIMPLEs into a Roth IRA are allowed without the early withdrawal 10% penalty provided your income is $100,000 or less and you are not married and filing separately. In 2010 these rollover limits are eliminated. Regular income tax is due on any taxable rollover amounts.
Tip: Taxpayers with non-deductible IRAs should consider rolling over amounts into Roth IRAs. The contributions have already been taxed, the past earnings will be taxed at time of rollover, but future earnings are tax-free.
Features | Traditional IRA | Roth IRA | Simple IRA |
---|---|---|---|
Annual Contribution | $5,000 per person | $5,000 per person | $10,500 elective deferral |
Age 50+ Catch up Provision | Add $1,000 per person | Add $1,000 per person | Add $2,500 per participant |
AGI Phase out | $53,000-63,000-single $85,000-105,000-married |
$101,000-116,000-single; $159,000-169,000-married |
Each participant decides elective deferral as a % of pay or specific $ amount. |
Contribution Deductibility | *Fully deductible if under income limits; non-deductible contributions are also available for those with excess income. Contributions must cease at age 70 1/2. | No; but age limit to continue making contributions | Yes |
Key Dates / Deadlines | Contribution: April 15th of following year Distributions: Mandatory at age 70 1/2 |
Contribution: April 15th of following year Distributions: Non-mandatory |
Contribution: within 30 days of the month the funds were withheld from your pay Distributions: Same as Traditional IRA |
Earnings | Grow tax deferred | Grow tax FREE if held five years | Grow tax deferred |
Withdrawals | Taxed as ordinary income if over 59 1/2 | Contributions: Tax free (taxes were already paid) |
Taxed as ordinary income if over age 59 1/2 |
Penalties | 10% early withdrawal (exceptions: over age 59 1/2, first home up to $10M, disability, death, medical) 6% excess contributions 50% penalty for excess fund accumulation after age 70 1/2 if minimum is not withdrawn |
10% early withdrawal (same exceptions as Traditional IRA PLUS no penalty ever on contribution withdrawals) 6% excess contributions |
10% on early withdrawal (same rules as Traditional IRA's); 25% if early withdrawal is within the first two years of plan establishment. 10% on excess contributions 50% for excess fund accumulation after age 70 1/2 if minimum is not withdrawn |
Comments | Self-employed can also participate in a SEP IRA, another form of the Traditional IRA. Annual contribution limits are as a percent of compensation. | Rules allowing rollovers from the other plans into a Roth IRA have been expanded after 2007. | SIMPLE IRAs are available to the self-employed or via your employer. |
This publication provides only summary information regarding the subject matter contained here. Please call with any questions on how this information may affect your situation.
Return to TopHousehold Budgeting
Establishing a Household Budget
One of the cornerstones to successful financial planning is establishing a workable household budget that manages your expenses, reduces your debt obligations and builds your savings.
This Wealth Builder brochure discusses the principles of budgeting and then provides a straight forward "Household Budgeting Worksheet" to help you establish a workable budget.
What Is a Household Budget?
A household budget is nothing more than a plan that sets spending goals over a period of time (typically one year) and allows monitoring or tracking of how you are doing in following the plan.
First Understand Cash Flow
To successfully develop a workable household budget the concept of cash flow must be understood. To understand cash flow, think of your finances as constantly changing. Money is being received in the form of employment pay checks, dividends, interest income, tax refunds, gifts and other sources. Simultaneously, cash is being paid out to cover regular living expenses like food, transportation, housing, taxes, insurance and supplies. You also pay for unanticipated expenses such as auto repair or medical bills. This ebb and flow of money into and out of your household is your cash flow. Household budgeting can improve cash flow (more coming in/less going out) by successfully managing and tracking the money flow.How to Begin?
Start developing your household budget by laying out all of your income and expenses by month for the past year.
- This will give you a picture of the amount and timing of your cash flow on a monthly basis.
- You'll quickly see the inflow of cash and outflows that occur weekly, monthly, quarterly and annually.
- You'll be able to see if your expenses are too high and your savings are too low to meet your financial needs.
What's Next?
From this initial picture you can then forecast your expenses for the coming year (up in some cases and down in others), target your goals for reducing your debt obligations, and meet your savings and investment goals.
Hint #1: If you are serious about planning your financial future you should budget to save a minimum of 5% and preferably 10% of your income each year.
Hint #2: Pay yourself first, by writing a check to your savings or investment accounts every time you pay bills.
Hint #3: Reinvest your dividends, interest, and any other investment income rather than spend it and you can realize accelerated savings growth.
Budget to Develop an Emergency Fund
Most successful budgets include the funding of an Emergency Account. This is money set aside to cover anywhere from two to six months of your household expenses. Practically, this money will be ready to cover the unexpected. Often it's not a question of if, but only a question of when you will be faced with unexpected expenses such as auto repairs, household appliance replacement, medical bills or loss of employment. The workable household budget should account for setting aside this emergency cash until two to six months of living expenses are accumulated.
Household Budget Worksheet
This worksheet is designed to help you organize your cash inflow and cash outflow into weekly, monthly, quarterly or annual frequencies. You'll need to review your pay checks, other sources of income and your checking account(s) you use to pay your bills to collect the budget figures. Notice that many of the periodic expenses such as insurance payments and taxes are relatively larger expenses and can be planned for by setting aside money (preferably in an interest bearing account) on a weekly, bi-weekly or monthly basis.
Call if you have any questions regarding budgeting issues particular to your situation.
This publication provides only summary information regarding the subject matter contained here. Please call with any questions on how this information may affect your situation.
Return to TopYour Net Worth
Often your Net Worth is asked for by a lender in the form of a Personal Financial Statement. Your Net Worth is the total value of what you own (your assets) minus the value of what you owe others (your liabilities).
Your Assets
Assets generally include cash, bank accounts, investments, property you own and other property of value. More specifically, key components of your assets are:
- Cash- includes funds in your checking, savings, money market accounts, CDs, Treasury Bills and cash values in your life insurance policies.
- Investments- includes stocks, bonds, mutual funds, retirement plans (e.g. 401(k)), IRAs, annuities, employee stock options and loans to individuals or businesses.
- Personal Property- includes collectibles such as art, stamps, antiques, coins, or guns- which may increase in value over time. Personal property also includes other property such as autos, boats, electronic equipment, musical instruments and household furnishings which may lose value over time.
- Real Estate- includes your home, vacation home, rental property owned and land.
Your Liabilities
Liabilities generally include debts you owe on loans, outstanding credit card balances, mortgages, leases, alimony and child support. Be sure to account for all the money you owe others both short term and long term:
- Short term liabilities- credit card balances, monthly bills, taxes, insurance and installment loans owed within the next twelve months.
- Long term liabilities- loans you may repay over many years such as mortgages, second mortgages, student loans, contracts for deed or other long term obligations.
Net Worth is the First Step In Financial Planning
When establishing a financial plan for you or your family a "first step" is usually to take a look at what you're worth.
Examining the components of your assets and liabilities and making projections of their individual values into the future can be helpful in forecasting your financial future and your retirement needs.
Accurately recalculating your net worth every six months to a year will also give you a track record of how your wealth is growing or declining over time.
Necessary Step When Borrowing
Presenting your Net Worth or a Personal Financial Statement will also generally be required by:
- Banks- When applying for a mortgage or a home
equity line of credit or loan. - Universities and colleges- When applying for
financial aid for yourself or your children. - Investment Institutions- When investing in high
risk instruments like options trading or junk bonds. - Sellers- When buying a business or other assets
with seller financing. - Clubs and partnerships- Where financial obligations
are involved to determine membership.
Use this worksheet to calculate your net worth
This publication provides only summary information regarding the subject matter contained here. Please call with any questions on how this information may affect your situation.
Return to TopSmart Banking
By paying attention to your bank accounts you can easily save more of your hard earned income and make your savings work harder for you. What can you do to become a smart bank shopper? Here are some tips.
Why Banks?
First, remember banks are in the business to provide three basic services; to facilitate financial transactions, to provide a place to store funds for future use, and to lend you money when you need it. These same services can be provided without a bank if need be, but most of us simply do not think of the alternatives to banks.
Look Into Credit Unions
These non-profit Cooperatives are owned by the members who use them. They often are a source of higher interest for your savings and lower loan rates (including credit cards) than most banks. Banks are so afraid of these institutions that they are constantly trying to get legislation passed to make Credit Unions less competitive.
Borrow From A Non-Bank
Perhaps the seller will carry some financing on the item you wish to purchase. Perhaps a family member or friend would be willing to loan you the money. You can often provide a decent interest rate to a non-bank lender at 2-5% less than what a bank may charge. Standard loan agreements are readily available at your local library or bookstore.
Shop And Negotiate
Almost all banks will negotiate a loan rate and fees, but most of us are reluctant to deal with banks or cross out clauses in their loan documents. Always shop three lenders for the best rate and tell them you are doing so.
Leverage Your Relationship
Banks often give special treatment to customers that are worth more to them. Ask your bank what breaks they will give you if you consolidate your accounts with them. You can often get your credit card interest rate reduced 1-5% by consolidating your card debt.
Get The Most From Bank Products
Understand FDIC Insurance
One of the key selling points of banks is FDIC insurance. FDIC stands for Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation and is funded by premiums paid by the banks.
- If your bank becomes insolvent, your deposit balances are insured and repaid to you from the FDIC.
- If the insurance must be used your biggest problems will be the timing required to receive your funds and the loss of interest on your funds until the date of insurance payment. So it is a good idea to have emergency reserves in a separate bank if insolvency is a concern.
- Your deposits are now insured up to $250,000 per bank NOT per account through 2009. If you have deposits that exceed the limit in one bank, consider moving the excess to another bank or add your spouse to the account as a joint holder of the funds if you want the deposits insured by the FDIC.
Bank Savings Accounts Are A Bad Bet
Introduced in the early 70's, Money Market Mutual Funds almost always provide a better rate of return than bank savings accounts. While Money Market Mutual Funds are not FDIC insured, the Treasury Department is offering a voluntary insurance program to insure their balances through 2009.
Never Buy The Bank's Checks
Instead, buy them from a direct mail check printer. In fact, many of the bank's check suppliers also have a direct mail business selling checks directly to consumers at a lower price.
Avoid The Overdraft Checking Trap
Overdraft checking is attached to your checking account and "kicks in" as an instant loan when your checking balance hits zero. There are many versions of this account and it is a nice way to avoid embarrassing overdrafts and fees on your checking account. However, this account is a large profit center for banks because it provides a nice rate of interest and most people do not pay the loan back immediately.
n Look for a bank or credit union that will shift funds from a savings account instead. The foregone savings account interest revenue is always cheaper than the interest you'll pay on the loan.
n Make sure you pay the overdraft loan back immediately.
Use Debit Cards Wisely
A Debit card looks like a Credit card, but the funds come directly out of an underlying checking account. This plastic card has the Visa or Mastercard logo on it so merchants will accept the card anywhere Visa or Mastercard is accepted. Banks love this product because it takes an expense (processing a check) and turns it into revenue (the Retailer pays a fee for the Debit transaction). Many users of debit cards fail to make the entry into their checking account, so the banks collect more overdraft fees. In addition, if the card is lost or stolen your checking account must be closed and you may be liable for up to $500 in losses.
Borrow When You Don't Need It
Ironically, banks want to lend money to you when your financial condition is at its best, but they don't want to lend when you are in dire need of the funds. To solve this problem the best time to apply for credit is when you need it the least. So expand the credit limit on your credit card of choice when your payment history and income is at its best. Or if you have equity built into your home look into establishing a home equity line. Unlike a loan, the home equity line allows you to create a loan when you need one not unlike a credit card. So you can establish the Home Equity Line when times are great without establishing a debt until you need it. Better still, the interest you pay on the line is often tax deductible.
Lower Your Bank Fees
Understand The Calculations
The push for additional profitability at most banks is now focused on generating fee income. Understanding what your bank charges and when can help you save money on fees. For instance:
- Many banks charge fees when an account balance dips below a certain level. It is important to know the dollar amount and how it is determined. Do they use the average balance over the month (best case) or do they "get you" if your balance dips below the minimum on one day (worst case)?
- Even closing an account can cause fees. Banks often charge $10 - $50 when you close an account. If it is a checking account you can often avoid the fee by waiting until all checks clear, calling the bank to verify the balance and then writing a check to yourself to close the account.
- When opening a checking account ask the bank about their overdraft procedures. If you overdraw by 50c will they return the check? Will they call you or send you a notice? What is the overdraft fee? What "free" overdraft services do they provide?
Work On Lower Fees
You should always be able to find a checking account that is truly free. But beware, free is often only free if you use the account the way the bank wants you to use the account. If you receive a fee, call and try to get the bank to waive some or all of the fee. They will often do so.
Avoid ATM Fees
Many banks are now charging fees for using ATM machines. This $1.00 to $2.00 fee is charged every time you withdraw your funds. Imagine, you give the bank $1 for the privilege of receiving your own money while saving them teller wages. To avoid this, find a bank that does not charge ATM fees for withdrawals from their ATM network.
Find No Fee Credit and Debit Cards
A Visa/Mastercard is a Visa/Mastercard, whether it's issued by Citicorp or by the local bank. The only things that change are the billing cycle, interest rate, and fee structure. So find a credit card that requires no annual fee and charges a low interest rate. But read the fine print. Credit card companies are notorious fee chargers and often change interest rates.
Fees Generating Fees
Ask if your bank's fees generate fees. Common culprits of this fee generating device are large auto leasing companies like GE Capital. For example, say your payment, per the bank, is received (processed) a day late but you thought you mailed it on time, so you dispute and do not pay the late fee. Your next statement would show the unpaid late fee generating another late fee. This despite the fact that your actual payment history is timely and accurate. Read the fine print on all loan agreements and cross out this language or write in the contract that the bank may not charge late fees on late fees. Or ask the auto dealer for an alternative leasing company that does not use this practice.
The Privacy Issue
With the deregulation of the banking industry, many large banks now have business interests beyond banking. It was discovered that banks were using your private financial information to sell you other products and services without your knowledge or consent. Legislation now requires banks to disclose to you whether they are keeping your information private or sharing it among affiliated and non-affiliated parties to sell you products and service. Make sure you review your bank's "Privacy Policy." It is now your "legal" right to "opt out" of allowing them to share your information if you choose to do so.
Banks provide a vital service for each of us, but you can save tremendous amounts of time and money by actively managing your financial relationship with them.
This publication provides only summary information regarding the subject matter contained here. Please call with any questions on how this information may affect your situation.
Return to TopTax Planning
The concept of Tax Planning is often an overlooked means of saving hard earned income. The laws are complex, the fear of an audit looms in the distance, and tax implications are not top of mind until it is time to file a tax return.
Remember that the Government only requires you to pay the proper amount of income taxes and NOT A DIME MORE. This concept has held true in many tax court cases where judges have noted it is not wrong to take steps to reduce one's tax obligation within the limits of the tax code.
Eleven Common Mistakes
Mistake #1. The biggest mistake made is waiting until too late in the year to assess your tax obligation. Often it's too late to take action or cash is not available to handle the obligation.
Mistake #2. Making a financial decision without conducting alternative tax obligation scenarios. Buying and selling a home, business, or investment are common examples.
Mistake #3. Under or over withholding State and Federal income taxes.
Mistake #4. Not taking full advantage of tax free and tax deferred programs. (i.e. retirement and education savings plans)
Mistake #5. Not reviewing and adjusting your W-4 (withholdings) after a life change (i.e. marriage, divorce).
Mistake #6. Not keeping adequate records of deductible expenses.
Mistake #7. Not protecting your assets from the final tax bite should you pass away (Estate Planning).
Mistake #8. Overlooking charitable donations.
Mistake #9. Using non deductible consumer debt (credit cards and auto loans) instead of deductible, Home Equity debt instruments.
Mistake #10. Failing to take into account changing tax brackets and the AMT (alternative minimum tax) amounts. This is important with the lower tax rates available for certain capital gains and corporate dividends.
Mistake #11. Failing to take advantage of tax credits and all allowable deductions.
Tax Planning Checklist
There are a number of events that should trigger a review of your tax situation. The following is a list of the most common. Seek advice and run alternative tax scenarios prior to deciding the best approach for your situation when:
- You borrow money or refinance
- You decide to pay off a loan
- You are planning for retirement
- You buy or sell stock and mutual funds
- You consider adding to or withdrawing from a tax deferred savings program (IRA, 401(k), etc.)
- You are retiring
- You are getting married or divorced
- You buy or sell your home
- You want to make a large gift to a child or relative
- You are considering a move
- You are considering starting, buying or selling a business
- You are incurring business expenses as an employee
- You are buying or selling business equipment
- You are holding an uncollectible note
- You are considering a large charitable gift
- You are buying or selling any kind of property
- You incur or expect to incur large medical expenses
- Your employer offers you a lump sum payment of your pension versus an annuity
- You incur or expect to incur large education expenses
- You are the beneficiary of an estate
Tax Reduction/Avoidance Ideas
To benefit the most from tax planning and avoid the common mistakes mentioned earlier, develop a tax strategy for your situation. The strategy should incorporate the following planning principles:
- When is the best time to complete a transaction that impacts your tax situation?
- How do you reduce your overall tax burden? What options are available?
- Defer any tax obligation, penalty free for as long as possible.
- Match high income with high deductible expenses whenever possible.
- Consider your marginal tax bracket when making decisions. The next dollar you earn could be taxed from 10% to 35%.
Some common tax planning and tax avoidance ideas are:
- Invest fully in tax deferred IRAs, Keoghs, SEPs and 401(k) programs.
- Explore all the IRA programs such as the Roth IRA and the Coverdell Education IRA.
- Look to expand funding for spousal IRAs.
- Take full advantage of the interest deductibility of your home mortgage and home equity loans versus credit card debt or other loans.
- Look into Annuities for their tax benefits.
- Explore using tax deferred cash value life insurance.
- If you have a casualty loss, shift income to the same year to maximize the available write off.
- Buy tax-free municipal bonds and bond funds.
- If you own a home, consider making an additional payment to shift interest expense into a high income tax year.
- Make sure you have a QDRO (Qualified Domestic Relations Order) that is negotiated as part of a divorce decree to address the tax implications of the asset allocation.
- Begin planning for retirement early. Conduct income forecasts and continually rebalance your estate to reduce taxes.
- Take advantage of the Section 179 expense option for depreciable assets of your business.
- Examine how to take advantage of post-secondary education tax credits and tax favored savings plans.
- Consider gifts to minors and beneficiaries over time to reduce investment income and future estate taxes.
- Consider business use of your home to capture business expense deductions.
- Plan other capital acquisitions and sales to offset gains with losses and to capitalize on lower long-term capital gains tax rates.
- Consider moving interest bearing investments to dividend bearing given lower tax rates.
- Consider like-kind exchanges to reduce capital gains tax exposure. If you intend to buy replacement property you can effectively defer a taxable gain into the future with a like-kind exchange.
- Take advantage of the $250,000 ($500,000 married) capital gain exclusion for the sale of your personal residence. The new exclusion can be used once every two years for your primary residence.
- Don't neglect estate planning strategies for you, your spouse, children and your parents, if needed.
A Word on Tax Free Yields
When is it better to invest in a lower yield tax free investment versus a traditional taxable investment? It depends upon your financial plan, investment risk profile and balanced portfolio need. Those elements aside, to aid you in comparing the investments, use the following formula:
Tax-free yield / 1 minus your federal tax bracket = taxable yield.
For example: Assume you are in the 25% marginal tax bracket and want to buy tax free municipal bonds with a 6% yield. The equivalent yield you would need in a taxable savings account or taxable investment would be 8.0% (.06/(1-.25) = 8.0%).
The Tax Planning Process
A typical Tax Planning Cycle runs for one year. The best time for review is usually after the new tax laws have been introduced. This is typically in the September/October time frame. The steps in the planning process may go something like this:
Activity | Timing |
---|---|
1. Initial Interview/Review | Sept./Oct. |
2. Conduct a next year tax forecast based upon established objectives | November |
3. Develop recommendations/ December estimates for:
|
December |
4. File prior year tax return | Feb. - April |
5. Conduct a mid-year review
|
June/July |
6. Review of any new tax law changes and situational changes as required. | Ongoing |
This publication provides only summary information regarding the subject matter contained here. Please call with any questions on how this information may affect your situation.